A Chef’s Journey: Mariya Moore-Russell’s Path to Culinary Freedom

It’s 6:30 p.m. on a rainy January evening in Irving Park, Chicago, and Chef Mariya Moore-Russell, 35, is plating appetizers for an intimate crowd at her pop-up restaurant, Connie’s Underground, named after her late aunt. Unlike the hurried, anxious, and self-righteous plating seen on television kitchens, there is laughter, patient instruction and a quiet confidence that comes only from a Black woman who has mastered her craft, carefully curated her inner circle, and chosen herself.

Chef Russell is a star with a star. In September 2019, she was celebrated as the first Black woman to earn a MICHELIN Star in the United States as Chef de Cuisine at Kikkō, a Japanese omakase restaurant in Chicago’s West Loop. At the same time, she was also Chef de Cuisine at Kumiko, a sister restaurant. Most culinary geniuses never reach this level of excellence, and some die trying. In an industry where restaurants closing after one year is the industry standard, Chef Russell, at age 30, had given her all to earn a star for a restaurant that had only been open for four months.

In line with what is known about Black women’s experiences in the workplace, Chef Russell was seen as exceptional and able to excel despite the workload of running two restaurants simultaneously—work that would typically require at least three more sets of hands. But behind the scenes, she was breaking under the pressure of perfectionism and was “in the weeds.” Although she expressed her need for more support, she was taught from a young age not to complain. Her requests for more staff were ignored, prompting her to make a bold decision. She gave the owners of Kikkō a generous one-year notice, prioritizing her mental health to leave and become the master of her own destiny.

“I dealt with a lot of things that I definitely shouldn’t have dealt with, and I was extremely overworked. That was something I had to unlearn,” she reflects.

Now, five years later, her new project, Connie’s Underground, described as a liberatory supper club and cultural celebration, marks an important step in her career journey. Russell is a world-class chef and a woman focused on rest, growth and building a culinary experience that embodies the love that fueled her upbringing.

“All of my values are at the core of this project. Everything that I have learned, everything that I’ve chosen, you know, is here, and it is such fulfilling work because of that,” she explains.

Today, she is reimagining the culture, setting aside the notion of hierarchy in the kitchen as we know it; focusing on community, intention, and filling the void of support that had been absent for most of her career.

“Being an imposter in my own body, all of these things that I moved away from, a lot of things that just don’t serve who I am and who I’m becoming. With Connie’s, shedding these ways and showing up in a way that is transparent and genuine, feeling and loving.”

Chef Russell believes love is at the core of creativity, and her peace is the foundation of the kind of success she now seeks in her life.

“I am trying my best to bring in that very intentional loving humanity into the space. So, if things aren’t exactly how they should be, I am showing up in a way that understands this. I have learned to relinquish control and come from a place of care and love and respect, human connection,” she shares.

This is what she always wanted.

When she started in the business, her goal was not a MICHELIN Star but something more wholesome.

“I wanted to make really delicious food that looked really nice. I’ve always been drawn to things that are more simplistic, and I feel like that’s a big reason I got into Japanese food,” she recalls.

The fare at Connie’s is carefully cultivated and beautifully made with sustainable ingredients that are killed humanely. She works with vendors who share the same vision of kindness in every facet of the culinary process, and while she has received funding and support for the pop-ups, she is currently financially supporting her dream.

A 2023 Harvard Business Review study found that 61% of Black women self-fund their startups. Chef Russell is open to partnering with investors who will embrace her new approach to the industry, keeping in mind her desire to remain in the Midwest close to family and the legacy she’s built.

In the meantime, she is the happiest she’s ever been. She can be found relaxing with a dirty Beefeater martini, listening to Beyoncé’s “Desert Eagle,” working on new dishes, and enjoying her success. Chef Russell has a résumé that will be etched in the history books, with more experiences to add—once a Michelin Star chef, always a Michelin Star chef.

Contribute to Connie’s Underground: https://www.gofundme.com/f/connies-underground-supper-club

Featured photo credit (top): Margo Popio